Chaplain completed

RAWR

Chaplain body and Crozius done

Finally! Now the last 2 pieces remain, and assembly!

Chaplain body done

I pretty much brought the body to a close-to-final stage. What remains to be done is the Crozius (it's been straightened-out a bit) and the final cleanup after that. Then we move to the thing that people are used to talk to a lot - the hand.

As far as painting goes, I've softened the Codex Grey highlights by painting a thin layer of Dark Angels Green over. Also you may notice that the blending between the armor highlights are much more smoother due to the same thing applied on the borders of the highlights.

Continuing the chaplain - bottom's up..

Today I continued working on the chaplain, completing the bottom part (minus the base). The tabard took a while to get right, since it has the most layers of paint on it:
1) based with Astronomicon Grey
2) washed with Badab Black
3) covered with a thin layer of Bleached Bone
4) Washed with Devlan Mud in specific places
5) Highlighted some areas with Bleached bone.
6) Added hard highlights with thin Skull White.


Everything else is as it was done yesterday.

Also, the camera does not do the model justice.

Starting the chaplain with the left foot

I have started painting the Jump Pack Chaplain by using the color scheme in the previous post as a reference. However, I have decided NOT to drybrush this guy at all, which brings me to a whole new way of painting this model.
By starting on the left foot I had plenty of room to experiment with the colors and highlighting without ruining the whole model by mistake.


So, what did I use:
1) Primed with white, then switched to black (this could be the first mistake that I've made on this model, but I hope it won't affect the detail)
2) Painted the armor edges first with dilluted Codex Grey
3) Thinned the armor edges and covered the whole area with slightly dilluted Chaos Black
4) Applied 2 layers of thinned Dark Angels Green (less towards the shadowed areas, more towards the lit areas)
5) Applied a thin layer of Dark Angels Green mixed with Codex Grey

For the knee:
1) I have covered it with a thin coat of Astronomicon Grey
2) Applied 3 layers of very thin Skull White, more towards the top, less towards the bottom.
3) Pained the skull with Shining Gold and gave it a wash of Badab Black.

Chaplain paint scheme

I've used this marine to test a paint scheme for my jump pack chaplain. So far I'm happy with the results.
I'll clean it up a bit (the noise you're seeing in the picture is drybrushing), finish it , then with the chaplain since I've postponed it too much :).

New tactical squad completed

This is the completed tactical squad. I've taken some pictures of them together with the old squads and the Rhino. Aren't they cute ?

Rhino detailed

I've done some more detail painting on the Rhino during a break.It's almost finished. The troop arrow was done by creating a mask out of scotch tape. I'll post a separate bit on that later :)

New tactical squad preview

I have almost finished a new tactical squad. In this squad I have experimented with a new helmet coloring pattern, glow effects as well as edge highlighting. I have 3 more heads to paint and the remaining shoulderpads.

Quick base-coating

Since my drybrushing tutorial I've been planning to paint a new squad of tactical marines, and this proved to be the perfect opportunity to show how I actually did my sargeant WITH PICTURES.

So, the basic idea would be to create armor plates that are of a certain color without obstructing details and having brush strokes all over.

First, I primed my model Chaos black and did a drybrush of Knarloc Green, making the models look something like this.


Then , started mixing Camo green (the final model color) with the Knarloc green pool, and drybrushed the models in a few stages as I added more and more Camo green.
This accomplishes the following things:

• Mixing a normal color with an undercoat color results in a color whose pigment is close to the normal color but retains the coverage properties of the undercoat color.
• Applying several layers of similar paint means brush strokes and other imperfections will be hidden by the previous layer of paint.
• Applying several layers of thin paint is better than one layer of thick paint as it doesn't obscure details.
  
• It's easy to do some shading to models by brushing the destination color only on "lit" surfaces"
• Mixing paints will always result in darker tones of normal color, which means you can use your final base color to do really smooth highlights.
• It's extremely fast!

Here are some intermediary steps for painting the marines with this method

As you can see, the camo green begins to show more and more each stage. During the last stage I brushed a Camo green-ish color from the mix only on the most lit surfaces, which gives the model more volume.


And here is how the final squad looks coated with this method. Notice that the details are all alive and well, there are no brush strokes and only minor touch-ups are needed. Oh, and it took 1 hour and not too much wasted paint to do all 9.